Like the city itself, and the majority of its inhabitants, Auckland’s food scene is sophisticated yet relaxed. And doesn’t take itself too seriously. Located portside on the mid east coast of Aotearoa’s North Island there’s plenty of fresh seafood and sunshine to be enjoyed in this city which boasts a sprinkling of fine dining, funky little bistros with multicultural flourish, and tucked away joints dishing up indigenous flavours. Plus there’s several cool precincts for shopping, dining and caffeinating and lots of incredible art. Got your attention? I hope so, it’s short and sweet as guides go but if you’ve just a few days in this fabulous town I hope you’ll enjoy my food lover’s guide to Auckland.
HOTELS
First things first, you need a great base for a city you want to stroll around in.
I was fortunate enough to stay at two very different hotels during my stay. (Full disclosure it was mid 2022 just after NZ reopened from covid closure – and yes, I realise this is quite some time after the fact, and I won’t subject you with the why – but I finally have a moment to more thoroughly express my thoughts on both Auckland and fabulous Dunedin… which is coming next ! Apologies to all concerned.. better late than never!??)
Anyway…. one accommodation was the excellent and artsy Hotel Britomart (L below), in the gentrified former red-light district, which truly felt like a home away from home; I was pretty keen to move in. The second was the new Park Hyatt (well it was at the time) (R below) – the only 5 star hotel in the city, located at the water’s edge.
Located in two adjacent precincts (funky Britomart and the waterfront area surrounding Auckland Fish Market which overflows with casual dining) and with only a 10-15 minute scenic walk between the two, makes this part of town, in my opinion, perfect for foodlovers to set up camp in, budget dependent. Of course you’re far from even glamping at either accommodation.
Although the rooms at the Hotel Britomart are rather compact, they are stylish, comfortable and the space is well used. They also include a wonderful selection of interesting, beautifully illustrated books on Aotearoa – history, animals, plants and art – so it feels like you are staying in a friend’s guest room. I swooned over the earthy tones of moss, rust and chocolate timber, met with plush white bedding and the sexy as, dark slate tile bathrooms and totally dug the whimsical art inside the mini bars (cleverly disguised by cupboard doors).
Hotel Britomart are proudly dedicated to green practices and promoting the surrounding area as well as local artists. There are great restaurants and bars within minutes -but the hotel itself has a terrific main restaurant, Kingi, where myself and fellow travel writer, the uber-talented Kate Hennessey (also the driver in this team’s NZ research trip) enjoyed a wonderful degustation dinner… but I’ll write more about that below. It’s the same room where hearty breakfasts take their position under the enormous chandelier of recycled glass, in the daylight hours. Think really great quality eggs, bacon, home made sourdough, wilted garlic silverbeet, or hemp heart granola with raspberries, kiwi and greek yogurt plus freshly squeezed OJ and top notch coffee. The hotel also houses a couple more casual options in a small inner courtyard laneway – which I sadly didn’t make it to as they were so damn popular. You’ll also find a nifty on-premises coffee bar for drinking ‘in’ or taking out, with pastries and sandwiches etc.
Plus upstairs there’s The Libraries – which I LOVED – a private bar, cellar and intimate event space catering to hotel guests who want a quiet nook for a drink or coffee, and for small private dinner parties, classes and wine tastings etc . If you’re travelling alone you’ll likely make great use of this area. The entire hotel space is beautifully decorated with original walls, textures and features encouraged to shine, further enhancing the hotel’s wholistic take on sustainability. The only thing that let the front of house team down a little was communication – however, it was a very new team at the time, and just post covid reopening so I’m assuming, based on their really excellent management team, that things have taken a massive upswing in that area and I look forward to returning. I mean just look at it!
The superbly handsome Park Hyatt Auckland was typical of the luxury brand which offers a consistently high level of comfort and style. Both upmarket and casual eateries and bars are available with top shelf offerings throughout. While I only stayed here one night and raced to fit in as much as possible – I didn’t really get to settle in and ‘know’ the property, like I did with Hotel Britomart for example, where I stayed 5 nights, so you’ll excuse the brevity here but , being a fan of the Hyatt group around the world, I can attest that it felt ‘just as it should’. The rooms are sooooo dreamy, plus I did get to use the spa for a wonderful full body treatment using NZ glacial clay, Manuka honey and other Kiwi gold. Additionally, all the staff we encountered were far more polished than you might find elsewhere in the country – but still chill, you know…. it’s NZ bro.
My room was stunning and HUGE with balconies overlooking the harbour below ( my deep tub shared the scene … love a bath with a view) – in fact the glittering harbour can be enjoyed from almost anywhere in the waterfront building, except the serene, contemporary art filled reception area and spa which were aptly installed long the street side of the hotel. Several room styles, including a couple of suites, are included in the above pics. Food and wine in Onemata restaurant was excellent – I’ll expand below and skilled hospitality was demonstrated throughout. Thank you for hosting me team Park Hyatt.
AUCKLAND FOOD AND DRINK
Well honestly, where does one start?
Perhaps with smart-casual, cosy and welcoming Alma – just a few minutes walk from The Britomart. Why? because it is one place that has truly stayed with me on return to Australia and I think about more often than would be considered healthy. This is in spite of the fact we only stopped in for a few snacks as we didn’t have a spare dinner night… We were fortunate to sample the oh so savoury and delicious anchovy and tomato tostada, the Cebiche, almond, fine ribbons of cucumber and harissa, extraordinarily good whipped hummus garnished with toasted black sesame and mellow olive oil and the grilled pork pinchitos with finely diced pear on coca (flatbread). I was desperate to get back but there’s only so much time when you’re on a mission to hit as many of a town’s culinary highlights as possible in just a few days. Simply delicious spanish and middle eastern flavours in a charming, seductive space with limited outdoor seating, excellent cocktails, a fabuloso selection of small and larger share plates and a few handmade sweeties to enjoy in situ or take away should you wish. And you will. I’d race back here in a heartbeat.
I love the rustic exposed beams of the lofty rennovated warehouse space which houses Amano, and particularly appreciated the use of oversized urns filled with fresh flowers which naturally softened the raw, slightly industrial energy of the building. Conviviality is instantly noticeable upon stepping into the busy eatery and you can’t help but smile at the promise of a good time. It’s upbeat yet relaxed, the drinks are flowing and diners chat between tables. The food is Italian inspired but heavily doused with regional NZ seafood and local ingredients. We shared fresh oysters from Waiheki Island (a short ferry ride from downtown Auckland), Kumera (local sweet potato) gnocchi with wilted greens, hazelnuts, burnt butter and Parmegiano Reggiano, smoked Wharhou (fish) pate and washed it down with a too easy to drink Arneis. A no brainer for folks on their own – sit at the bar or grab a table and enjoy the people watching. Guaranteed someone strikeds up a conversation, even if it’s the waitstaff.
Fine diner, Onemata, in the Auckland Park Hyatt (see above) showcased the best of NZ produce and vines but in a clever, playful way – an homage to Kiwi food -riffs on homecooking and favourite snackfoods. Think decadent Paua (abalone) and pork sausage rolls, buttery green lip mussels, Scampi risotto with crayfish bisque, whiskey cured local salmon, Te Mana lamb shoulder, slow roasted until it was falling from the bone, dressing in a rich jus and fresh herb sauce. The best bread with addictive house butter. Sides including roasted butternut and kale with pumpkin pickle. Dessert wowed with a handmade chocolate bar, with truffle ice cream with Jerusalem artichoke caramel… And that’s certainly not all we consumed!! Or attempted too.. it was sublime but there might have been leftovers. The handpicked wines from Neudorf, Craggy Range, Rippon Vineyard and Framingham were mind-blowing ! We were utterly spoilt. So much so that I was still full the next day and couldn’t even imagine fitting in breakfast!
Milenta is a South American inspired eatery hidden away (and I mean that, don’t trust your gps!) within the Victoria Park Market, where you’ll find other fab food, drink and coffee options and a few cool shops. Not only that – you’re directly across the road from a sprawling greenspace if you feel like a stroll pre or post. This is another fun spot, but this time with a focus on the grill. In fine weather awnings scroll back to uncover the dining room, turning the vibe from intimate diner to al fresco kick back. With vibrant flavours, cheeky snacks, music you’ll sway along to, sizzle and aromatic smoke wafting through the vicinity you can easily convince yourself you’ve scored an invite to a really cool BBQ party at a mate’s house in an exotic corner of Brazil. When I ate there it was the middle of the week and having only opened recently I practically had the place to myself. I ordered an almost savoury ‘smoke and mirrors’ with smoky mezcal, citrus and possibly tomato or capsicum juice (my bad, I did not check) – which turned out to be the perfect cocktail to sit on for the duration of meal which comprised of several snacky share plates (and dessert, although I’d drained the glass by then)! First up was Chicharon (pork cracklings) finely spritzed with vinegar and seasoned with oregano and thyme salt, served with a punchy, oniony green mayo. Followed by a very modern take on rice and beans – think fine rice powder and black garlic wafer with a pureed black eye bean ‘dip’, in the centre a well was filled with coriander oil. Then came lime cured Picanha, lightly charred then chopped, like a steak tartar, served with jalapenos, quail egg yolk and deep fried, fine potato matchsticks -which was the highlight for me. I also tried a light side of heirloom tomatoes, whipped ricotta, pickled onion and pomegranate. Dessert was a thankfully not oversweet tres leches (3 milk) cake with smoked raspberry ice cream which was the standout on the plate, the cake being a little more dense than I would have liked. And I’m a sucker for a Tres Leches cake so was a little disappointed. But that fricken ice cream – I would have been happy with a bowl on its own! All in all, I reckon this would be a splendid spot for a group of friends on sunny day or balmy eve and imagine weekends are pumping! Again, this joint was newly opened when I dined and I expect they are charging ahead. If you go, please let me know.
AHI Restaurant was another stand out – the streamlined, elegant yet deeply comfortable space (note the gorgeous eucalyptus coloured velvet chairs and parched terracotta leather banquettes) really allowed the exciting , textural food to do the talking. And boy was is full of fascinating insight. Ahi’s kitchen technique was blissfully onpoint, I cannot express that strongly enough. Honestly I found only a handful of restaurants during my 5 week NZ culinary exploration that demonstrated quite that level of culinary craftsmanship. Service was truly on point too. Looking around me, lunch time on a Friday in the CBD, it was clear that everyone was in a festive mood and taking advantage of the winelist and cocktails, which were clearly created as a highly suitable teaser to the food menu.
We kicked off with a few delectable snacks – you choose 4 from a small list and I went with 1. Te Matuku Oyster, cucumber, fresh sorrel ice, 2. Wallaby tartare, fermented hot sauce, wagyu tendon, 3. Scampi hotdog with burger sauce and 4. Kingfish, pickled clams, escabeche and fermented capsicum – all gorgeously presented. This was followed by 4 larger dishes – again your choice of a larger selection – I went with 1. Hot smoked Quail, raglan coconut yoghurt, tamarillo kasaundi and carrot garum, 2. wild red deer, coal baked beetroot, creamed horseradish, activated walnut and cheese savoury, 3. Berkshire and Devon Black pork, pumpkin and pineapple charcuterie and pumpkin seed mustard. Before 4. dessert of White chocolate, cocoa puffs, rhubarb sorbet. There was also an icy palate cleanser on a stick which I cannot remember… I’d even forgotten to take photos of most of 2 main courses I was that enraptured. I honestly can’t give you any more detail (due to the time it’s taken me to write this) than to say it was all exceptional and that if you have the chance to dine here.. bloody well take it. I know it sounds like all those flavours etc could prove a little OTT but honestly – it was perfection. I savoured every bite.
As mentioned earlier, the hotel Britomart has a wonderful main restaurant KINGI, where I was hosted for dinner. Celebrating fisherfolk from around Aotearoa, they have both an a la carte menu and a smart little set-menu situation ‘Taste of Kingi’ which allows you to linger in front of the open fireplace for a good couple of hours. We enjoyed a range of simple, yet interesting and well executed dishes including a whole Yellow belly flounder with capers and curry leaves, Kina (sea urchin) on toast with pancetta/ trevally tartare, smoked yolk, butternut. If I was working in Auckland and chained to my hotel 3 meals a day, I probably couldn’t pick a better spot. (see HOTEL info above for more about the options here including great coffee and breakfast) . I did say earlier that I wanted to move in right? (sorry the pics are so dark!)
SHOPPING
The hub of the Britomart precinct, around Takutai Square – right in front of the hotel, contains a handful of stylish stores – my favourite being Wonder Journal – run by a Japanese woman – wall to wall homewares and fashions from Japan.
Of course I was going to fall in love ( tipped off by a local mate – thanks Jo Jo) – I also found another similar store on Ponsonby Road – Public Record. I highly recommend both if you dig the Japanese aesthetic and beautiful handmade ceramics, fine hand dyed fabric, hand-crafted jewellery etc.
In fact, Ponsonby Road boasts a long strip of eclectic shops, a mix of stylish, elegant boutiques and boho bits n bobs bordering on punk curiosities, as well as art galleries, barber shops, cafes, electrical goods and wicken specialists. Eclectic. There are a bunch of food/cookery related stores and places to eat including the wonderful Island Gelato company – scooping flavours like Pics peanut butter and caramel, Banoffee pie, Waiheke honeycomb, sour cherry and dark chocolate, blueberry, mascarpone and ginger crumble… they had an impressive range of non dairy, vegan friendly options too… I think I sampled them all.. deeeelish. I also noted another popular join for icy treats – Duck Island, further up the hill but I was ice-creamed out by then and had dinner to attend. Do check out Ponsonby Central , a collection of hip casual eateries under one roof which feels like a really cool shed experience… think fried chicken and burger joints, with the odd rocking horse or children’s clothing store thrown in for good measure. I thoroughly enjoyed my time strolling up and down the strip and its not to be neglected side streets and only wish I’d had time to check out the nearby antiques/vintage district on Karangahape Road. Next time.
ART & CULTURE
Fortunately I had a just enough time to briefly hit the Auckland Art Gallery which was fabulous, and again – if only I could have stayed longer. I did manage to slip into the gift store, which is also excellent , and purchased a tiny bottle of Curionoir perfume. It’s insanely heady and magical, made by Maori woman Tiffany Witehira, who was first exposed to natural fragrance by her great grandmother who worked with native New Zealand botanicals but later trained in Grasse, France. Who could resist? I loved every scent I ran under my nose, which is in fact rare for me… after a not insignificant amount of mind-changing I finally chose one that I love soooo much I’m attempting to make it last until I’m able to return. It turns out that she has a stand alone store on Ponsonby road which I’ll be sniffing out – but wow, how the hell did I miss that? I’m really building up a list of ‘must return to’s’ aren’t I ? Might be a sign. (I’m going to forget I just read that you can purchase Cuironoir perfume in Australia..).
GETTING THERE
Has A food lover’s guide to Auckland made you hungry? Well what are you waiting for? Book your trip!
Sending a big shout out to AIR NEW ZEALAND and TNZ who were responsible for getting us over to the land of the long white cloud. Boy did we fit a lot into those 5 weeks.. I’m still recovering. But it was such an eye opener. I’d previously only ever spent a few days here and there in NZ but this longer investigation provided so much joy and surprise. NZ fricken rocks. Keep an eye out for my take on the South Island’s DUNEDIN soon.
And here’s some further links if Christchurch, The West Coast, Malborough region or Culinary NZ by train, or Driving from Christchurch to Dunedin or NZ’s Seafood shacks or South Bank Wine floats your boat – which they absolutely should.
