A review of January 2026’s 17 day Zenbu Kyo-za tour of Kyoto, Kanazawa and Noto Peninsula. And what a wondrous winterland it was.
While reports occasionally threatened route-hampering storms during January’s Zenbu Kyo-za tour, we received only enough snow to make everything utterly magical – never enough to hinder our plans. Once again, we were so lucky with our timing and our very lovely and careful drivers
Sometimes travelling to parts of Japan that are known to receive heavy, sudden snow, like Ishikawa’s Noto Peninsula for example, can make running a winter tour just that little bit trickier… I can assure you there was a lot of Pollyanna-ish finger crossing added to the usual itinerary finessing this year! But I needn’t have worried.
We were surprised by how unusually quiet Kyoto was – certainly compared to the last few years. Sure, there are still some parts which feel over-crowed -i.e. where first-time tourists have not yet worked out there’s a whole lot more to Kyoto than what you find in most guide books! However, we tend to steer well away from those few spots, for now.
Honestly – 99% of Kyoto was utterly blissful this journey – so don’t let headlines sway you too much! A shift in the over-tourism situation has begun. There aren’t fewer travellers visiting Japan – numbers are still growing – but there are so many return travellers, plus those simply seeking a deeper, more regional focussed experience – therefore some lesser known parts of Japan are starting to feel the love. But there are still many areas that really deserve a lot more attention…. (and if you haven’t been to Shikoku and the Setouchi with us – what are you waiting for – it is incredible, and there are still a few spots left for November this year /2026)).
Ahem… although I didn’t begin this post with any intention of plugging my new book, I will now – because at this title’s core is my wish to inform, inspire and encourage people to explore the Japan they don’t know, in ways they might not have considered – this applies to first timers or multi-trip obsessives.
If interested, please do check out Secret Japan on the Simon and Schuster site.
Secret Japan – an insiders guide to the world’s most fascinating country publishes April 28 2026 in Australia (those not living down under will have to wait another month or so!)
*Pre-orders are open – I’d be honoured it if you were one of the first to grab yourselves a copy!
You’ll need to CLICK THIS LINK to see the real deal!
And, as I am inclined to do, I strayed a little off topic… Here are some Kyoto visuals to bring you back – all snapped on the Zenbu Kyo-za Winter Wonderland Tour in January 2026.
Those who travelled with us to Kanazawa and the remote Noto Peninsula for the first time were particularly thrilled to experience the sleepy countryside and rugged coast, and honoured to pay homage to the locals who have been deep in the repair stage since the devastating earthquake 2 years ago (New Year’s Day 2024). There are still many folks living in temporary housing and much evidence of the force of nature – yet the people… wow, such resilience. I’m in awe.
We sincerely hope that our purchases of local pottery, lacquerware and ingredients (as well as visits to the lacquerware museum, the temporarily located Wajima market, michinoeki, local restaurants (including the most fabulous and atmospheric soba noodle and oyster restaurant and a superfun fish-shop owned izakaya – plus the few reopened shops in Nanao) went a little way towards reassuring people that travellers are starting to return.
It was a short stay but we hope it reassured at least a handful of Noto-ites that there’s interest in the region, their produce and products – and that even from afar, we care. It wasn’t totally self-less of course – it was a feel good trip for the group- privileged to spend time in the region and do our little bit towards keeping locals afloat and hopeful.
As usual we were welcomed and cared for like family (also royalty), by our good friends at The Hyatt Regency Kyoto. I’ve personally been staying there for over 17 years, so it really is like returning home each time we walk through the front door and into that relaxing, Super Potato designed, open space.
Sadly, onsite Touzan restaurant has now closed permanently. (Some of you will have very fond memories of your own welcome dinners at Touzan, looking out onto the raked pebble garden, camellia trees and bamboo… don’t worry – the bar is still in full functioning order!
In fact, the hotel kindly opened Touzan specially for us to accommodate our welcome dinner – they’d literally closed the doors a week prior to our arrival. The stunning space now looks set for banqueting and special events..! I might have to have a party there one day just to see it again!
BTW regulars – if you get a chance – please do drop me a line about the thing/s that stood out most from your welcome dinner/s with Zenbu Tours throughout the years! Let’s see if we can’t make them even more memorable.
We were also very well cared for by another member of the Hyatt Family – Hyatt Centric in Kanazawa City (below), it was our first group stay and it did not disappoint – it’s a really lovely hotel, built just before the pandemic so it’s basically new – and filled with local art. It’s also extremely convenient, located adjacent to Kanazawa train (including Shinkansen) station.
As is ‘a given’ on a Zenbu tour, we ate amazing cuisine, both casual (think handmade soba noodles with freshly shucked oysters) and fine dining (elegant, highly creative joints – more than a handful with Michelin stars – not that you’d know necessarily – the Japanese are not always so obvious with such accolades, preferring to remain humble. How refreshing. Although to be fair, Michelin generally means far less to Australians than it does to other territories… and if you don’t know why, it may be worth doing some research 😉
We were introduced to new ingredients and food styles, sipped fine sake, plum wine and Japanese whisky, and sampled some unique and special Japanese wines. And let’s not forget that fascinating gin distillery tasting workshop! We enjoyed a masterclass in Kombu in an older part of town and cooked and ate lunch with a culinary friend in her traditional home before wandering through old shotengai, witnessing local life. Here’s a little taste:
But Zenbu Tours are not just about eating and drinking, as those who’ve travelled with us will know.
We tinkered with Indigo and Kintsugi, ogled textiles and weaving looms, cradled divine ancient pottery and stroked contemporary tableware. Some took incredible photos and extra classes – like brush and ink work/calligraphy – whilst others shopped for Australia.
We met incredibly talented and inspiring pottery folk – accompanied by our lovely friend and pottery expert – Robert Yellin. His pottery gallery, showcasing many wondrous and eclectic works from around the country, is located near the Philosopher’s path aka tetsugaku no michi). If you have an appreciation of the craft – you cannot miss this- and say G’day to Robert from us. One of our guests made a very special and historic purchase this trip and to say that I’m envious would be an understatement – but I’m also thrilled ( and might have encouraged the sale so I could live vicariously through her!) And no, I don’t get a kick back… Japan doesn’t work like that and I personally don’t think it’s ethical.
We wandered through food/ handmade craft/flea and antique markets, and over footbridges and winter gardens where we witnessed plums starting to blossom. We visited geisha and samurai districts, cool galleries and fascinating small museums. We sipped coffee and mooched around brilliant bookstores. We floated in and out of temples and shrines, each of them with intriguing characteristics that tell a bigger story than you might imagine.
We gasped and smiled broadly as it snowed over Ryoanji temple’s peaceful zen, and the breathtaking farming region of Ohara – where we also enjoyed our forest to table lunch by the fire over which it was cooked. Ok, I slipped back into food there.. .but you know, a girl needs lunch between cultural activities…
We visited good friends in their exquisitely restored Noto farmhouse (seriously – the work and love that’s been put into their home is phenomenal) for tea and home-dried persimmon. There might have been cuddles with an oversized and highly enthusiastic poodle and attempts with the less than impressed menagerie of kitties. We watched Sumo at their local izakaya, run by the adjacent fish-shop where we scarfed down the catch of the day and sang along to Abba before trying to spot Aliens… yeah, that’s how we roll. No day is the same on a Zenbu tour – we like to mix it up and allow for a little serendipity too …
Along the way, we shared cultural observations, facts and ponderings, fun folklore and ghost stories. Over time, we also shared our own stories, each of us leaving knowing a little more about each other, and ourselves.
I cannot explain to you what a joy it is to watch our guests become friends. A couple on this trip only met on our November 2024 tour and have become great mates. This is not a rare occurrence – it’s been happening since day 1 of Zenbu Tours. 14 years later and our Zenbu ‘family-tree’ keeps extending. Gosh, we might have to arrange a reunion!
We love our regulars and meeting new regulars, and then witnessing various members of the Zenbu-Family merge on new tours – it is THE BEST part of my job. And I love my job.
Mostly..
Naturally there are challenges with any tour involving this much long-term planning and detailing – especially when trying to make it appear like it all just magically happens! It’s a giant jigsaw puzzle of intricate pieces from the start – and it’s crucial for all those parts to fit snugly, but not to the point of inflexibility.
We are really so lucky to have so many guests who just ‘get it’ and fully appreciate everything we do – it makes it all worthwhile. Thank you.
Moving right along.
Yes, for those who’ve asked – we are planning on running this tour, at least a version of it ,again in January 2027. As you know, if you’ve been following along – we never repeat a tour verbatim…
I have new restaurants and experiences to add and am currently sourcing pricing. It will be moment before I can officially announce details, however, if you are super keen to join us – I am now taking expressions of interest.
Please email us here and I’ll pop your name on the EOI list and circle back to you before announcing the details more broadly. Oh that sounds so corporate… But you know what I mean.
If you’ve read this far you may at least be curious to hear more… do know that I’ll be writing our next newsletter momentarily, but at any time, I’m only a phone call away.
If you have any questions regarding our tours and whether they are a good fit for you – please email me at the same link above and we can arrange a chat at your leisure. And naturally, without obligation.
Ja, mata ne! Jane (25 Feb 2026)
