Welcome to PART 3 in my what has grown into a surprisingly popular NEW ZEALAND FOOD-LOVER’S SERIES… by accident, and by apparent demand!!
You can find my Food-lover’s Guides to Auckland here, and Dunedin here!
Or dive straight into the blissful Coromandel, or ‘Coro’ as it’s affectionately nicknamed. Aussies and Kiwi’s eh? We love a shortening of longer words and a lengthening of the shorter.. but that’s a story for another time.
PS – my maternal grandfather was born in NZ, so I can proudly claim to be a fraction Kiwi. True, bro..
TOP TEN COROMANDEL FOOD TIPS
Touted as the Byron Bay of New Zealand for its laidback vibes, superb hinterland-to-beach terrain and relaxed dining scene, this rolling stretch – around two to three-hours’ drive from Auckland, depending on your destination, offers true hedonistic escape.
1. Coromandel Distilling Co
The first gem you’ll encounter on entering the western mouth of the Coromandel strip is the unassuming village of Thames. Behind the attractive mid-1800s architectural facades you’ll discover artist collectives, vintage stores, great coffee and, officially, one of the world’s finest gin distilleries. Check out their international awards! Launched during the pandemic by an erudite conservationist couple, the sublime range of Awildian “drinkable perfume from plants” includes a variety made on excess mānuka honey from their hives and homegrown organic herbs and citrus, aged in mānuka timber.
2. Lunch at Café Melbourne
Neighbouring the distillery, sharing space within the lofty sprawl of The Depot (a popular homewares spot), this breezy café demonstrates the Australian flair for uber-fresh, seasonal food and long share tables. Stop by for fruit smoothies, on-point coffee and a counter full of house-baked sweeties or linger over their tasting plate for a selection from the daily menu, possibly including their heavenly coconut and fresh lime fish curry, tender, spiced pork belly and heapings of crunchy greens.
3. Seafood rocks – Coromandel Oyster Company
Whether stocking the ‘bach’ (holiday home) or simply enjoying a literally breath-taking coastal drive, you won’t find a more frequented pitstop than the Coromandel Oyster Company. Briny, succulent molluscs, freshly sourced from adjacent leases, are served any-which-way including natural, golden-battered, smoked or in a bisque, but topping the charts is the steak and oyster sandwich. Their mussel game is also strong. Pull up a bench for sunshine and views.
4. Rainforest bath and bubbles – Tropica Lodge
Hidden high in a tranquil setting overlooking serene Whitianga’s sweeping bay, Tropica Lodge offers exclusive-use luxury accommodation in casual Coromandel. Everything for a gorgeous holiday is provided, with hosted services and an outdoor bathing experience overlooking the lush surrounds. Add a glass of bubbles to the soundtrack of slowly swaying palms and nattering native birdlife.
5. Best fish and chips – Coroglen Tavern
Look beyond Coroglen Tavern’s game-hunting ornamentation (a legacy of the previous owners) and pig-weighing station (which was still in operation when I visted a few years back) for swellegant pub-grub, and North and South Island beers on tap. Rightfully-famous is their perfectly pan-seared scallop burger, layered with well-dressed greens, but line-caught gurnard (a butter-tender white fish) in a thin veil of golden batter, served with crunchy chips and house-made tartare sauce, will make a Sunday drive to nearby Hot Water Beach even more spectacular.
6. Worst-kept local secret – Luke’s Kitchen
Day or night this surf-shack jumps. Fantastic wood-fired pizza, killer cocktails, loaded salads, seriously impressive plant-based party snacks (looking at you sticky cauli-wings), and neighbourhood microbrews are excellent reasons to book ahead at Luke’s Kitchen. Folks shimmy back, time and time again, for sunny tunes and the warmest hospitality on the island, er peninsula. Order me a Dark and Stormy with house-made ginger beer and a slice of Naughty Fig, and I’m there! Coro hospo at its best.
7. Falls Retreat indoor picnic
On cooler evenings, nothing trumps a fireside glass of red in a rustic log cabin by a babbling, deep-forest brook… or does it? Highlighting stays at Falls Retreat are gourmet grazing meals, featuring artisan cheeses, cured meats, homegrown produce, house-made pickles, relishes and sweet treats, delivered to your cosy cottage. The rustic barn restaurant also dishes up wood-fired sourdough pizzas, handmade pasta and seasonal garden-to-table fare. Keen cooks can get their hands dirty in the organic kitchen gardens or join a sourdough, pasta or preserving masterclass. Get outta town!
8. An artful brunch – Port Road Project
You could easily lounge away the day at Whangamatā’s scandilicious Port Road Project sipping coffee, grazing on cardamom buns, and resisting the urge to step inside the ethereal photography which graces the walls. However, brunch time also harbours considerable beauty — if they are still on the menu, don’t miss the feel-good creamy miso mushrooms on sourdough with lightly pickled red cabbage, crisp seeds and sprouts, the savoury mince and cheese toastie with chilli butter, or fluffy waffles with poached pear and espresso chocolate crème.
9. In the drink – The Lost Spring
The Lost Spring, a geothermal hot spring facility in Whitianga (with multiple pools of varying temperatures, cavernous nooks and primary-coloured lighting), might well have gone cold if it wasn’t for the constant flow of visitors desperate for its lush spa treatments and cocktail-soaks in the nurturing waters. And yes, you can sip cocktails while lounging in the warm mineral pools, with drinks delivered right to you. This unusual paradise found is so brilliantly retro you half expect to see Patrick Swayze and Baby practising an air lift on the rope bridge.
10. Paeroa and a pie – Providence Pantry
An iconic brown bottle pins the birthplace of L&P soft drink to the map, but a more recent culinary installation takes centre stage. Amidst Paeroa’s Kiwiana antiques strip stands the dreamy Providence Pantry. Artisan pasta, cheese, wholesome meals, and homey slices are table-ready, but their terrific pies won’t make it as far as the Hilux! I’m calling it! NZ’s best. Smoked fish with capers and cream cheese or beef and red wine stew topped with parmesan mash for the win! (OK Kiwis – if you have a favourite pie shop elsewhere in NZ- you can @ me!)
BEYOND THE FOOD: A FEW COROMANDEL MUST-DOS
See Cathedral Cove from the water
Yes, it’s famous … deservedly so. The towering rock arch, white sand and dramatic volcanic coastline are spectacular. I’d recommend getting out on the water by kayak or boat to explore the surrounding caves, cliffs and marine reserve. I believe the walking track is also open again, although access can change following heavy rain. If you go out on a motored boat – make sure the driver isn’t going too fast – if it doesn’t work for you…. I think some folk love the thrill of being bounced around (remember Kiwi’s are hardcore and have no fear! You’ll note that on the roads too…) but when you have a dodgy spine, specifically pretty serious stenosis and a degenerative disc disorder, you don’t need to be bounced so high off the seat that your coxyx exploxes on return impact… BTW -that bit did not happen, but it felt like it could have caused some damage to a fragile spine…. I had to ask several times for him to slow it down. No bouncy bouncy thank you. I think dear Kate was also relieved – but mainly because it stopped my screaming….
Also – some of the islets are considered sacred, so ask before taking photos and do some reading on indigenous-history in the area.
Dig your own spa at Hot Water Beach
One of those wonderfully kooky natural experiences you really shouldn’t miss. Time your visit for low tide, hire a spade and dig yourself a little pool in the sand, where naturally heated geothermal water bubbles up from beneath the beach. Just be careful, some of that water is seriously hot! Aim for within two hours either side of low tide. We let other people do the digging and they were kind enough to let us take a wee shuffle and sit in their temporary ponds.
Go birdwatching at Pūkorokoro Miranda
I wasn’t into bird-watching/ identification until I travelled to NZ with writer-mate Kate Hennessey – who is far more au fait with such things… I might add however, that I managed to snap a certain feathery friend she’d been hoping to see in the flesh, when I was on my own. A kinda pigeon looking thing wearing britches… yes, that’s how much I don’t know. OK, I later discovered, it was a kererū .
If you’re even vaguely twitchy, don’t miss the Pūkorokoro Miranda Shorebird Centre on the Firth of Thames, at the gateway to the Coromandel. Thousands of migratory shorebirds gather along extraordinary mudflats, including bar-tailed godwits that fly all the way from Alaska, red knots and the wonderfully odd little wrybill, with its sideways-curving beak. Guided walks and binoculars are for hire, and the best viewing is generally within two hours either side of high tide. Different varieties year round. We also spotted quite a few (names unknown to me, but Kate will know…) in the greenery/park area next to Hot Water Beach (see above) .
Ride the Driving Creek Railway
One of the peninsula’s quirkiest attractions, near Coromandel Town. A narrow-gauge railway winds through regenerating native forest, past artworks and extraordinary engineering feats, to a lookout high above the landscape. Railway adventure meets restoration project.
An extraordinary collision of lush native bush, dramatic river scenery and the remains of New Zealand’s gold-mining history. Follow old railway lines by foot or cycle, wander through mining tunnels and cross suspension bridges above the river. Bring a torch if you’re heading into the tunnels, and check track conditions before setting off.
For energetic types, the Pinnacles Track through the Kauaeranga Valley is a beauty. Expect steep climbs, old logging routes, native forest and remarkable views across the peninsula. It’s a substantial hike rather than a casual stroll, with an overnight hut option for those keen to catch sunrise. Nah, you won’t see me there – but you go for it! See ya…
GOOD TO KNOW
It’s bloody beautiful, but you really do need a car to get around, there is limited PT. Taxis exist, but are not so easy to come by. Private shuttles are worth investigating.
If driving, one needs to be experienced and confident because this little patch of wilderness, dotted with sweet villages & farmland has some pretty hairy goat-track roads with sheer drops and locals who don’t mind putting the pedal to the metal. Nighttime is very quiet; however, there are a few fun joints with live music, cocktails and the odd micro cabaret or drag show – ask a local for the best intel!
The writer was a guest of Destination Coromandel and Air New Zealand.
**Full disclosure – this trip was taken not long after the Covid borders opened in NZ. The story was written for a food and travel publication, but due to ongoing lockdowns and some serious storms that followed, closely shadowed by a cyclone which caused flooding/landslides and some serious damage to the region , the story was put on hold. And time flew .. and here we are – so apologies to all the people who shared their gorgeous Coro with us – but I did a check to make sure you are all still operationg before posting – and thankfully the answer is YES! go you good things. That’s some stoic Kiwi-ism for you right there! I hope that publishing this might help bring some more Aussies to your shores. Jane x
